MaticKos Photography

Flash and umbrella holders


Over the years I've bought, destroyed and lost a number of different speedlight & umbrella holders. Some were great, some were crap adequate, what I have left I put together and did a quick comparison review.

There are A LOT of holders out there, with different speedlight mounts, different light stand mounts, type and number of joints, materials, weight capacity, etc, as well as different prices. Basic ebay holders start at around 4€, the big gun from Manfrotto costs 35€ or more. But the most expensive might not be the best one, it all depends on your needs.



Basic ballhead

One of the most basic and cheapest ouf there is a ballhead holder. Made partly from metal, partly plastic, this thing weights only 98 grams. Ballhead is a plus, there's a 360 degrees of rotation, so you can point it anywhere you want. Minus is the plastic shue mount, where you put the speedlight in. It holds it by friction, no locking mechanism here, so it's not the best solution. Another problem is the position of the speedlight mount. Since it's only screwed on the ballhead, you can't really position it the way you want it, you can either fully screw it on (and be stuck at the position that is it) or you can unscrew it a bit, to position the speedlight the way you want in relation to the umbrella. It's better to fully screw it on, then rotate the head of the speedlight. Umbrella hole is on the neck of the ballhead, so no individual position of the umbrella. Another problem is the hole for mounting onto a light stands - it's too short. You can't firmly fix the holder to the stand if it has a shaped head, it slips off and locks at an angle. But it is small and light, if you're on location it might be ok for background lights, where you set it and leave it alone.



German double joint

These holders were one of my first and probably the best. I found them years ago on german ebay, made by a guy in his garage. Totally metal, with standard hotshue mount with locking hole as well as pc sync, they weigh only 150 grams. Huge plus for me is the dual joint. Umbrella shaft is on it's own section so you can align your speedlight with the umbrella shaft. This minimizes the blocked light and centers the light with the umbrella center for maximum efficiency. Hole for light stand is long enough for secure fix, so there's no chance it'll slip off.  Sadly, these aren't on the market anymore. I bought 4 with hot shue mounts and 2 with 1/4 screw mount and I still love them! Sadly, 3 got stolen lost over the years.



Basic steppable

Very popular are these black steppable holders that you can find all over the place. They're small and light at 140 grams. The head is made from metal, body from strong plastic. But not strong enough. I broke 2 of these by over-tighting the light stand screw. Sure, if you're carefully that won't happen, but when you're in a rush you forget and the plastic side cracks. But that doesn't mean it's useless, I still use them since the plastic is strong enough to hold even with a cracked side.
Same as the ballhead one, this one has umbrella hole on the same section as the speedlight head, so no individual positioning. Big plus for this holder is steppable angle lock that actually works. There are plastic teeth that interlock at different position (there are about 60 teeth, so it does a wide degree of angles) to secure the head and eliminate slippage. I personally don't like this screw-type fixing heads, but they do offer a big area to fix the speedlight. Another thing with this head is, if you have an L shaped speedlight shue, it will block the head from locking securely. That's why I made a modification with a chinese seller to include three grooves on the head. Those now allow the L shape shue to slide in the groove and you can securely lock it. So look for version nr.2 if you're buying this type of holder or click here.



Selens double joint

Another dual joint holder that I got a while back is the Selens brand. At around $25 it isn't the cheapest one, but it looked the best and strongest. Made from all metal parts, with locking teeth on all joints and metal wing nuts screws, I was hoping I found my favorite holder. Sadly, that didn't happen.
Those locking teeth are the first problem, they do lock at the position of the first teeth, but there's still some movement left, which I don't like. Wing nut screws are the second and bigger problem. I don't know if I got a bad copy (or two, since I bought two of these) or is it just cheap materials and metal, but on three screws the wings just broke off. They didn't fall off, the top section just broke away from the screw and now turns with no friction and no effect. Since one did that on a shoot I was stuck with a screwed screw and no way of unscrewing it. Luckily I had pliers with me, so that did the trick. But since I couldn't rely on those screws anymore, a trip to the metal store was necessary, buying and replacing all screws and nuts. Which still annoys me. Due to the screws I now don't really have faith in these holders, I'm always a bit worried when I put something heavier on them that something will break or bend.




Manfrotto is a well known Italian brand and it's products are always high quality. Same goes for this holder. Made 100% from metal, with 416g weight, there's no chance anything will break anytime soon. Umbrella hole is on the same section as the speedlight mount, so sadly no independent tilting, but for bigger umbrellas and/or speedlights/flashes Manfrotto is capable of handling almost everything. For studio work or when I need something secure and reliable - this are my "go-to" holders.



Selens 3in1

One specialty holder that I got is Selens 3in1. As the name says, I can put 3 flashes onto one holder. The reason I got this was my 188cm umbrella (which I'll do a review of sometimes soon). With that size you need quite a bit of light. Since I don't like carrying big Elinchrom lights and power packs out into the field, this 3in1 holder + 3 flashes seemed like a good and compact idea. But again, chinese have failed me.
The holder does what its supposed to, it holds 3 flashes, has correct angles so it covers the whole surface of the umbrella, even has a single 3.5mm sync hole so you can trigger all the flashes at once, but quality of materials just isn't there. It feels flimsy, it doesn't hold secure, it feels it'll broke in the first wind. It doesn't have the standard hole to mount it on a light stand, instead it uses a 1/4 thread which is way to small and insecure in my opinion. With 188cm sail and 3 (expensive) nikon flashes I'm just not taking my chances. I've used it 2 or 3 times indoors and even then I was worried. But, it's out there if you need it or have a smaller umbrella. I have recently switched to AD360 (360Ws flash with real bulb, almost the size of a regular flash with it's own (and small) power pack; I'll do a review sometimes soon) flash for most of my outdoor shoots, so I don't need this thing anymore.

There are many different type of holders out there. Do you need something small for the background lights, something light for field work or something strong for studio, the choice is yours. There isn't a universal holder that would do everything, so you have to plan in advance and get/use what you need.
My personal relationship with flash holders isn't over yet as it seems.. I have found (and ordered) a new holder, a mix of manfrotto holder with double joint. Will add it to this review once I get it, so stay tuned.


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Speedlight light spread in umbrella test // Flash razprsitev v dezniku

I finally had some time and did some sample images of speedlight diffusion inside a white umbrella with different settings. I never did any testing like this before, I knew from experience what different settings bring you, but it's still interested to see how light behaves with different modifiers. I was mostly interested in the way light spills inside the umbrella, what makes the most even spread. Stofen (or any other brand) dome and internal flash diffuser are quite similar, but I'd say internal flash diffuser is better.

So, nothing to scientific, Nikon SB800 on a stand, manual mode at 1/16 power with a 100cm Elinchrom white umbrella. Nikon D800 in manual mode, ISO200, f16. Triggering was done by PocketWizards Flex units.

First set was done shooting into an umbrella, second from the opposite side, outside of the umbrella.
Sequence was:

1.) SB800, 1/16, no aditional modifier - 24mm
2.) SB800, 1/16, stofen diffuser or dome - 14mm
3.) SB800, 1/16, internal flash diffuser was pulled out - 17mm
4.) SB800, 1/16, internal flash diffuser was pulled out + stofen dome on top - 14mm

After the sample shots, I measured the light output using a Polaris light meter set at ISO800.
The results were:

1.) f5
2.) f4.5
3.) f4.5
4.) ???*

For the #4 sequence, light meter was unable to measure light at one meter. At around 70cm it gave a reading of f4, then was unable to read anything lower then that. I found that very strange and still don't know the reason why the meter couldn't read f2.8, f2, f1.4,... etc.. I tried with a new battery but it didn't help. Tried the same measurement with #3 setup and it gave a normal readings down to f0.5 with more distance used. So, no reading for #4 sadly, but it's clear from the sample shots that the light was very weak, 2-3 stops loss at least.

Končno sem imel nekaj časa in naredil nekaj vzorčnih fotografij kako se svetloba razprši znotraj oz z uporabo dežnika. Kako se svetloba razprši sem vedel po izkušnjah, vseeno pa je zanimivo dejansko videti kaj povzroči različni modifikator in različni milimetri. Po pregledu fotk lahko vidimo, da stofen in interni difuzer naredita zelo podobno razpršitev, a vseeno je interni difuzer malenkost boljši.

Nič posebaj tehničnega, Nikon SB800 na stojalu, ročni (manual) način z 1/16 moči, 100cm velik Elinchrom bel dežnik. Nikon D800 v ročnem načinu, ISO200, f16. Proženo z Pocket Wizards Flex enotami.

Prvi komplet je bil fotkan v dežnik, drugi pa z nasprotne strani, zunanja stran dežnika.
Vrstni red je bil sledeč:

1.) SB800, 1/16, brez dodatnega modifikatorja - 24mm
2.) SB800, 1/16, stofen difuzer - 14mm
3.) SB800, 1/16, uporabljen je bil interni difuzer - 17mm
4.) SB800, 1/16, uporabljen je bil interni difuzer + stofen difuzer - 14mm

Po izdelavi fotk sem zmeril še izgubo svetlobe z Polaris svetlomerom pri ISO800.
Rezultati so bili:

1.) f5
2.) f4.5
3.) f4.5
4.) ???*

*Pri zadnji meritvi svetlomer nikakor ni želel izmeriti svetlobe. Pri cca 70cm razdalje je podal vrednost f4, nato pod to ni šel, tudi pri par cm dodatne razdalje. Zakaj ni podal vrednosti f2.8, f2, f1.4,.. itd si ne znam razložiti. Tudi z novimi baterijami v svetlomeru napaka ostaja. Podobno meritev je pri postavitvi št. 3 normalno opravil, vse do f0.5 pri večji razdalji merjenja. Tako žal za postavitev št. 4 nimam vrednosti, vseeno pa je že po fotkah videno, da je izguba svetlobe občutna, vsaj 2-3 zaslonke.


F&V Z96 led light efficiency & softness test


I own a small 96 LED video light from F&V named Z96 that I bought a long time ago. It's a tiny light that I mostly use for close-up videos, but it's also usable for photography. Due to it's small size it's not a soft light, so I decided to do a simple test with the added diffusers and an umbrella. I measured the light and did some sample shots to compare the shadows.


Light on a stand, distance from the wall was 150cm. All measured at full power:
- no difuser @ f2.2, ISO400, 1/50
- white diffuser @ f2, ISO400, 1/50
- orange diffuser @ f1.6, ISO400, 1/50



Added a white Elinchrom 80cm umbrella:
- no difuser @ f1.1, ISO400, 1/50


Switched to Elinchrom 80cm, silver reflective umbrella:
- no difuser @ f1, ISO400, 1/50


Moved the umbrella closer to the wall:
- no difuser @ f1.2, ISO400, 1/50

So the output with the umbrellas is practically the same and since white produces softer shadows, I tested shadows only with white one.
Same setup as before, light on a stand, 150cm distance, 100cm distance from the umbrella (when used). Nikon D800 on a tripod, 60mm f2.8 macro lens, light measured with a light meter. Did all shots at same aperture, the last one was adjusted to give correct exposure.


As expected the plastic diffusers made no difference! Softness is determined by the relative size of the light source in relation to the object, not some plastic frosting on top. Since both diffusers are the same size as the light itself, they made no difference. Orange one is useful for color correcting, but nothing more then that. Umbrella on the other hand made a big difference. Since the light itself it about 3 times the size of speedlights, it filled the umbrella more efficiently and produced a very soft light. Sadly, the Z96 is not strong enough for most subjects, but for macro work it should work.



GoPro field of view (fov) and image quality compared

So I have a GoPro Hero2 for a long time now. It's mostly used for backstage or as a "scene" camera since the footage is perfect adequate for my needs and the wide angle is just what I need. The one thing that always left me wondering was it's Field Of View (FOV) settings while using a fixed lens and the image quality associated with it..
In 1080 mode Hero2 has three options: wide (180 degrees), medium (127 degrees) and narrow (90 degrees). There are no interchangeable lens, no moving glass, no optical zoom, so the change in FOV has to be done by software, right? The software just crops into the original 1080 wide shot and enlarges the crop to 1920x1080. So it doesn't make any difference if you record in wide mode, then crop&enlarge if needed later in post. At least that's what most users on forums say, but is it true? Well, I had a few hours to kill while my video was rendering, so I did a quick test.

Three 1080 clips on a tripod: wide, medium and narrow. Done indoor, in poor light to maximize defects and to see the noise reduction done by the GoPro.
All screenshots are unaltered, at 100% view, cropped to center 700x700px for easy(er) handling on blog.

Then I took the wide shot and enlarged it for about 128%, to fit the original medium shot from the cam.
If you use your keyboard left and right arrows, you can quickly switch between the two images and compare them.

There is a slight brightness and color temperature difference, but the sharpness and noise difference is quite obvious. The original medium shot is a lot sharper and clearer then the enlarged wide shot. So I guess GoPro doesn't only crop and enlarge, it does a few other modifications as well.


Here's the same comparison between wide and narrow shot. Wide shot enlarged to fit the original narrow shot.
Don't really have to comment, do I?



This noise was bothering me too much, so I went out and did some some more outdoor samples.

Taken on clear sunny day in sunlit area, original medium shot and wide shot enlarged in Photoshop. There's some contrast difference, but that's easily fixed in post, but the sharpness difference is obvious.


Here the original narrow shot with enlarged wide shot. As before.. no comparison.

Here's another original narrow shot and enlarged wide shot; sunny day, shade:


and original narrow shot with enlarged wide shot:


Last sample set, original medium shot and enlarged wide shot; sunny day, open shade:


and original narrow show with enlarged wide shot:



My conclusion..  It is NOT the same filming in wide mode (then cropping & enlarging in post) or changing fov modes in camera itself. If sharpness is your main priority, it is far better to pick your fov and setting it in the camera before filming. Color and contrast can easily be fixed in post, same as blur, while sharpness can't be. Judging by the samples, GoPro does a really good job with it's "zooming", so use it.



Nikon 1 – J1 & V1 test..

Po tednu preživetim z Nikon 1 družinico, še vedno ne najdem pravega odgovora na moje začetno vprašanje: Nikon 1 - žepni slr ali (pre)dragi kompakt?
Na uporabnost Nikon 1 aparatov sem gledal primarno s stališča dveh uporabnikov: uličnega fotografa (street photography) ter slr uporabnika z željo po čem lažjem a s podobno kvaliteto. Žal J1 in V1 ne bi popolnoma zadovoljila ne prvega ne drugega uporabnika. Pa pojdimo lepo od začetka..

Oba aparata J1 in V1 sta zapakirana v lično kovinsko ohišje z mat premazom, ki ne shranjuje prstnih odtisov. Kvaliteta izdelave je kot se šika in oba aparata bi prenesla dnevno premetavanje v torbi ali žepu. Sama postavitev gumbov je enostavna za uporabo, mogoče bi si želel malo manj gumbov, predvsem pa bolj trdih oz kompaktnih. Pri držanju aparata z eno roko zelo hitro ponesreči pritisneš še na kak dodaten gumb (največkrat EV) in spremeniš kakšno nastavitev. Tudi sprožilca bi bila lahko bolj izrazita, sploh za uličnega fotografa, saj praktično ne omogočata polovični pritisk. Treba se je potruditi in uporabiti center sprožilca. Pri hitrem enoročnem fotkanju je to kar moteče.

Tako V1 kot J1 imata ločen gumb za video, ki (dokler se na to ne navadiš) povzroča kar nekaj slabe volje. Glavni sprožilec v filmskem načinu aparata tako ne bo deloval oziroma bo naredil le fotografijo, ne bo začel snemati. Za snemanje moramo uporabili drugi sprožilec. Ko smo ravno pri filmih; oba aparata ponujata full HD 60i in 30p ter 720 60p način. Kvaliteta posnetkov je ob dobri svetlobi odlična, tudi pri slabši svetlobi več kot dobra. Aparata omogočata popolno kontrolo snemanja od nastavitve zaslonke, zaklopa in svetlobne občutljivosti. Med snemanjem imamo na voljo tudi zajem fotografij, ki pa bodo v 16 :9 formatu. Za snemanje videa resnično potrebujemo najhitrejše kartice, testna class 4 (15mb/s) ni bila dovolj in je omogočala manj kot 2 min snemanja. FullHD 60i npr. snema pri 24Mbps. Oba aparata omogočata tudi high speed snemanje z 400fps oz kar 1200fps. Žal je ločljivost pri takih posnetkih zelo majhna (640x240 pri 400fps, 320x120 pri 1200fps; oba sta omejena na 5 sekundno snemanje), tako neke velike uporabne vrednosti tu ni, je pa vseeno zanimivo za pogledat.

Nikon 1 V1 - 1200fps test clip from Matic Kos on Vimeo.

Oba V1 in J1 imata 10 milijonski CMOS senzor z kar 2.7 crop faktorjem. Če Nikon primarno cilja na družinske uporabnike je zanimiva (da ne rečem čudna) izbira 10Mpikslov. Žal še danes velika večina družinskih fotografov ocenjuje aparate po številu pikslov. Popolnoma napačno, vendar žal resnično. 10Mpikslov je tako bolj mala številka, ki zna odvrniti marsikaterega takega kupca. Mimogrede: 10Mpikslov je več kot dovolj za vsakega domačega fotografa!
Zaradi 2.7 crop senzorja trenutno najširši 10mm objektiv postane kar 27mm, majhna globinska ostrina pa je skoraj nedosegljiva z izjemo closeup posnetkov oz uporabo večjih gorišnic. Bolj zanimivo bo videti aparata na kakšnem tele objektivu kjer npr 300mm postane kar 810mm.

Nikon V1, 10mm 2.8, f2.8 - f11

Nikon V1, 10-30mm @ 10mm, f3.5 - f11

Nikon V1, 10-30mm @30mm, f5.6 - f11

V1 za razliko od J1 ponuja tudi elektronsko iskalo, ki svoje delo dobro opravi saj je slika živa in brez zakasnitve. LCD zaslona sta pri obeh aparatih kvalitetna in dokaj dobro vidna tudi pri sončni svetlobi. Zelo bi si želel nagibni LCD, mogoče pri naslednji različici Nikon 1 serije. Največja zamera pa gre senzorju za iskalo pri V1 aparatu! Ker ima V1 elektronsko iskalo je seveda potreben preklop oz aktivacija le tega. To se rešuje s senzorjem, ki je vgrajen poleg iskala, ki avtomatično aktivira iskalo, ko zazna oko v svoji bližini. Vse lepo in prav, samo senzor se aktivira ob vsaki motnji v svojem vidnem polju! Vsak prehod z roko, premik vratnega traku, premik kosa oblačila, karkoli bo aktiviralo senzor, ki bo tako izklopil LCD in vklopil iskalo. Pozabite na senčenje LCDja z roko, senzor ga bo takoj izklopil. Če boste pri dvoročnem fotografiranju preblizu senzorja, bo ta ponovno izklopil LCD. Še ena funkcija, ki je zelo moteča. Zelo enostavno pomotoma ugasneš LCD in tako izgubiš 1-2 sekundi, da se ta ponovno aktivira. Wakeup čas tako ni neopazen, moteč je pa tudi image preview, ki pokaže vsak narejeni posnetek. Čeprav se ga s pritiskom na gumb da ugasniti, pa ponovno izgubimo sekundo ali dve. Še ena nastavitev, ki bi si jo želel v menijih.

Podobno kot navoj, je tudi hot-shue na V1 popolnoma nov, kar pomeni, da obstoječe bliskavice in dodatki na Nikon1 ne bodo delovali. Nikon 1 serija ima svojo lastno bliskavico, ki pa žal ni nek tehnološki dosežek, podobno velja za vgrajeno bliskavico pri J1 aparatu. Najosnovnejšo delo bosta opravili, fotografiranje skupine oziroma z razdalje pa bo že prezahtevno opravilo.
Priročen dodatek za V1 je GPS modul, ki omogoča geo-tagging, žal pa potrebuje kar nekaj energije za svoje delo in tako še dodatno skrajša avtonomijo baterije. Bateriji pri obeh aparatih bosta za umirjenega fotografa zadovoljili vikend potrebe, za bolj aktivne strelce pa bo potreben nakup dodatne. Pri V1 različici je stanje baterije po približno 200 fotkah in petih 3-4min full HD videih 33%. V1 sporoča stanje baterije tudi preko menija v procentih, J1 te opcije nima in ima samo indikator na zaslonu v stilu mobilnih telefonov, kar je bolj nezanesljivo.

Kot rečeno ima Nikon 1 popolnoma nov navoj, ampak brez skrbi, Nikon je poskrbel tudi za adapter tako bodo kmalu uporabne vse Nikon leče. Žal v času mojega testa ta še ni bil na voljo, tako o tem kdaj drugič. Pri testu sem imel na voljo tri objektive iz Nikon 1 serije: 10mm 2.8, 10-30mm 3.5-5.6 VR in 30-110mm 3.8-5.6 VR. Kar se tiče VR funkcije, roko na srce, je ta praktično neopazna. Posnetki so bili večkrat streseni čeprav čisto na meji pravila "zaklop/gorišnica". Izredno moteči je tudi zaklep zoom leč, ki je pri Nikon 1 konkreten gumb na levi strani leče, ki zahteva držanje aparata z eno roko in odklep leče z drugo. Hitri, naključni, street posnetki so tako največkrat zamujeni, če imamo na voljo le eno roko in leča ni vnaprej odklenjena. Lečam manjka tudi obroč za ročno ostrenje, le to se izvede preko gumba na ohišju. Sicer deluje, vendar zelo počasi v primerjavi z pravim ročnim načinom. Avtomatično ostrenje je načeloma hitro, sploh pri več točkovnem ostrenju. Vse tri leče so majhne, tudi 30-110 lepo sede v roko, tako ne dodajo pretirane teže kompletu.
Odlična sta sprožilca, ki je pri J1 elektronski, pri V1 pa imamo možnost izbire med mehanskim oziroma elektronskim. Elektronski je praktično neslišen, mehanski pa ravno dovolj glasen, da ga še slišimo na ulici.

Nikon 1 serija je prinesla tudi nekatere novosti, ena izmed njih je funkcija Smart photo selector, ki že ob polovičnem pritisku na sprožilec začne zajemati fotke in jih osvežuje vse dokler ne pritisnemo sprožilec do konca. Aparat tako zajame 20 fotk, nato pa samodejno izbere pet najboljših posnetkov glede na ostrino, izraze in kompozicijo. Funkcija se mi zdi odlična, saj se večkrat zgodi, da aparat ne ujame (oziroma smo prepozni mi) tistega delčka sekunde, kot bi si mi želeli. Vseeno pa me moti avtomatika glede izbora "petih najboljših fotk". Kaj pa aparat ve kakšen kader sem želel, kakšen izraz sem lovil ali kakšno defocus fotko sem iskal? Tako lahko željeni posnetek enostavno izbriše, če ne ustreza njegovim programiranim kriterijem. Želel bi si možnost deaktivacije tega brisanja. Mogoče v kakšni prihodnji nadgradnji programske opreme..
Novost je tudi Motion snapshot, ki poleg slike zajame 1-sekundni video, ki ga predvaja skupaj z zajeto sliko.

Sama kvaliteta fotografij Nikon 1 aparatov je drugače zelo dobra. Barve so lepe in nasičene, tonski prehodi gladki, CA povsod dobro kontroliran, šum dokaj dobro nadzorovan. Šum, dragi začetniki, je direktno povezan z velikostjo senzorja in številom pikslov. Več kot je pikslov in manjši kot je senzor, slabši je šum. Tako je Nikonova odločitev za “samo” 10Mpikslov odlična! Nekaj za razmislek, ko naslednjič v trgovini kupujete aparat s "čim več pikslov"..


primerjava ISO 100 - H1 (100% crop spodnjih slik)

Nikon1-iso100 Nikon1-iso200 Nikon1-iso400 Nikon1-iso800 Nikon1-iso1600

 Nikon1-iso3200 Nikon1-iso-h1

(original JPG fine, brez dodatne obdelave, 3-6MB)

Za uličnega fotografa V1 in J1 nikakor nista primerna. Tudi obstoječi slr uporabniki večinoma ne bodo najbolj zadovoljni. Po tednu dni uporabe lahko mirno rečem, da sta aparata narejena za novega občasnega/družinskega fotografa. Za fotografa, ki ima čas za fotografiranje in bo brez večje naglosti nastavil vse potrebno. Za fotografa, ki slr sistema še nima, vendar si želi malo več kot mu to ponuja kompaktni aparat, katerega mogoče že ima. Dobra video podpora in funkcije kot so Face trigger, Motion snapshot, ter Smart photo selector to tudi potrjujejo.
Vseeno pa ostaja vprašanje ali bo družinski fotograf res posegel po Nikon 1 sistemu, ki ima leče in dodatke v stilu slr razreda, ali bo raje kupil naprednejši kompakt z več avtomatike oziroma bo posegel kar po pravem slr razredu, ki mu omogoča (naj)več kar se prilagodljivosti (in kvalitete) tiče? Po eni strani so velikost in funkcije Nikon 1 sistema bližje kompaktom, po drugi je sistem s svojimi lečami, dodatki in cenami bolj podoben slr razredu, vendar s kompromisi na obeh straneh.

Osebno mislim, da je največja "napaka" Nikon 1 sistema velikost senzorja. Za naprednejše uporabnike, ki že imajo slr sistem in si želijo podobno kvaliteto vendar v manjšem in lažjem ohišju bo tale senzor kar (pre)velik kompromis; za nove domače uporabnike pa premajhen razlog za nakup v primerjavi s kompakti oziroma predrag v primerjavi s pravimi slr aparati.
Če za hec v isti aparat postavimo 1.5x senzor vidim čisto drugačno zgodbo. Obstoječi slr uporabniki dobijo kvaliteto, ki so jo navajeni v kompaktnem in lahkem ohišju (seveda bi bilo ohišje v primeru večjega senzorja malenkost večje, vendar ne veliko, kot lahko vidimo pri konkurenci), domači uporabniki dobijo slr kvaliteto z določeno avtomatiko kompakta, vseeno pa še vedno ostaja razlog za prestop v slr razred z večjo in kvalitetnejšo izbiro leč ter dodatkov.

Nobenega dvoma sicer ni, da bo/je Nikon zagnal svojo marketing mašinerijo in se bo tudi Nikon 1 sistem prodajal. Vseeno pa mislim, da bi se lahko še veliko, veliko bolje..


(original JPG fine, brez obdelave, 3-6MB)

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